day 9 & 10: "don't give a damn" and a sweet end

friday, june 20, 2014

in honor of bermuda's most famous visitor, we decided it was time to get to know the island as mark twain knew it. he often said the endless white roof tops reminded him of snow without the snow, as far as the eye could see a blanket of white mingled admist the tall palms and flowering oleanders.

there are no newspapers, no telegrams, no mobiles, no trolleys, no trams, no tramps, no railways, no theatres, no noise, no lectures, no riots, no murders, no fires, no burglaries, no politics, no offences of any kind, no follies but church, & i don't go there.  - letter to elizabeth wallace, march 10, 1910

mark twain visited bermuda eight times during his life, the last being just a week before his death. he did no writing here, but he visited to get lost in serenity. people remember him strolling about the island in his white "don't give a damn" suite, accented with various cotton shirts and his signature cigar. frankly, i believe we all need to own a mood altering suit and find our own bermuda to force us to live life a little more differently.

CHICAGO DAILY TRIBUNE, march 17, 1907
mark twain seeks place to wear white.

mark twain, known to the passenger list of the steamer bermudian as "the hon. samuel l. clemens," sailed today for the summery climes of bermuda "in search," he said, "of rest, british humor, and an opportunity to appear logical in march in a white suit."
"they say," he observed, as he lit a cigar, "that the combined aroma of crushed onion and easter lilies is like that which dilate the nostrils of the gods on parnassus. i'm going to find out."

masterworks, located in the bermuda botanical garden, celebrated twain's life on the island with an exhibit which runs through the end of june. provided by an anonymous donor, it includes letters, clothing and even cigar boxes (void, of course, of the cigars he endorsed) from the character clemens. a wonderful look back for this literary geek. $5 admission.

a view of the gardens from camden house. camden house, built in early 1700s, sits at the top of the hill overlooking the botanical gardens and is designated as the official residence of the premiere of bermuda. during the day, it is open to visitors. free admission.

this small cottage located on the grounds of the botanical gardens is an excellent visual on how water is collected. the limestone roofs are weaved for water to flow downward, being caught and stored in the water reservoir underneath the home. there is no fresh water; their only source is rainwater.

saturday, june 21, 2014

it was our last full day, and we had to fill it with what was yet to see and do. first of all, we must experience a bermuda sunrise. even through the clouds, we were still in awe.

sunrise from astwood park along south road

gibbs hill lighthouse

recently restored gibbs hill lighthouse sits atop the highest point in southhampton parish. the hill stands 245 feet high and the structure stands 117 feet. its 185 steps are an easy climb offering the best views of islands, harbors and coves of bermuda. there's also a giftshop and restaurant - formerly a tea room -  at the base of the lighthouse. $2.50 to climb. reservations for the restaurant are recommended.

a gombey dancer entertains the crowds gathered

inside the lighthouse, landings (every 15-20 steps) provide rest and information

members of the ETA motorcycle cruising club gather at the lighthouse before meeting up with bermudians who join them for a ride to horseshoe bay and the north to st. georges. riders - plus their harleys - come from the eastern US aboard a cruiseship and stop at various ports along the boat's itinerary. the excitement was palpable and the 23 locals bikers that joined them could not wait to get going.

always leave your mark

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jetskiing and other formidable water sports

i am not a water person. i take that back. i like to sit and watch, but not to skip and bounce. i want my feet on solid ground. however, if you like to push the water limits, bermuda gives you all options. from jetskiing to parasailing to flyboarding, they do it all. we 'jetted' with sea venture water sports which is based at waterlot inn. if you're a pro, they are great; they turn you loose and the ocean is yours. if you're a novice like me, check out bluewater - which, in our opinion, seems to be the best water sports provider on the island.

before unfathomable speeds on white caps

the sky should have given the water's rocky spirit away

the shortcut from the atlantic to the great sound - underneath sommerset bridge, the smallest drawbridge in the world

i smiled because i could see the dock - no other reason!

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farewell dinner at mickey's

since i had just swallowed (thanks to the sharp turn tip over) most of the atlantic during my jet ski 'adventure' - my husband's words, not mine - i decided i deserved the best the island had to offer on our last evening. mouthwatering food that included a view. mickey's beach bar and bistro at elbow beach club off south road. hands down -  the best food, the best atmosphere we experienced during our entire week. with no reservations we had about a 45-minute wait; we were rewarded with a table for two near the sand. len's garofalo rigatoni bolognese and my fresh grilled bermuda fish (bonita) were impeccable. as the sun set upon our last night in paradise, we ended with dark chocolate and a most fabulous feeling that we had experienced the best ten days ever.

a sweet ending: dark chocolate brownie masterpiece