December 2018

Travel Like a Viking: Our Beginnings in Amsterdam

The Backstory or How We Made It to Amsterdam

When you combine Europe + Christmas + Boats + Luxury, there's an unspoken romance that begs to be explored. Over the course of two years, Len and I had been working to tell the story of Christmas markets in Europe with Viking River Cruises. Finally in December 2018, it was our turn! Looking back, I'm not sure the scope of our anticipation was quite large enough. When the Viking commercials wrap across your TV screen and your hear a melodic female voice (the owner's daughter) encourage, no entice, you to book a trip because it is this and so much more, believe her.
We begin our week long adventure with an add-on in Amsterdam.

The Heineken Experience

Taking home the pouring championship. The Heineken Experience

One of many canals in Amsterdam. Planning the old-fashioned way.

Every form of transportation in Amsterdam has its own lane. After about three days, you finally get the hang of the lanes and how not to lose your life. The city might be known for their canals, but it's the bicycles that have taken over the streets. Of the 800,000 people in the city, most own two bikes (a good one and a junk one) each taking the total to about 1.3 million bikes. And they have the parking garages that will blow your mind. There's even a bike doctor who will come to your rescue.

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Ramblings in Amsterdam

 Day 1 |Travel Day
We go.
     We have come to love Air Canada, not only for great customer service but also affordable fares.
     With that, we're flying from Atlanta to Toronto then to Amsterdam via Air Canada. We booked in early October, right about 60 days from our December travel. Len watches airfares with Hopper and other apps, as well as on our favorite carrier's websites.  Often we find we miss a great deal because we always think something better will come along. On the day we booked, the same feeling flowed, but we knew the days-out made a difference as to whether or not we'd see a deal again. After booking tickets (app. $500 each RT), the fares sky-rocketed.
     The flight to Toronto, uneventful, other than the $17 dry sandwich at the airport. The flight to Amsterdam, basically empty. I can't remember a time when an airplane was so empty. People scrambled for the middle rows, raising armrests and stretching out on their unexpected beds. December is a great time to travel; lower fares and less crowded flights make the experience enjoyable. My cranky airport traveler (a.k.a. Len) is much nicer. 
     Upon arrival in Amsterdam, we are greeted at baggage claim by Tony, our driver, who will transport us to our hotel for our Viking per-excursion stay. The Movenpick Hotel Amsterdam City Centre is adjacent to the cruise terminal and across the street from the main train station. It's contemporary design is welcoming and it's location, convenient. We opted for an upgraded room since that allowed us to check in immediately. Another tip, we always book a standard room and ask for an upgrade upon arrival. Most of the time, one is available at much less that the cost of the initial booking. We saved 30 euros from the standard rate, and we have a suite with complimentary mini-bar with drinks and Heineken, happy hour with more Heineken and wines with cheeses and hot goodies, a buffet breakfast, and the all important, in-room Nespresso (Judy's happy now).
     We nap; Len wakes an hour later from his deep sleep. "It's Thursday Judy?" For some reason, he remembered our Anne Frank House tickets (must purchase online) for 3:45 p.m. We jump up and walk into the venue at a timely 3:43 p.m.
     The museum tour travels up through four floors of the actual home where Frank and her family hid for two years. In the final room, the diary.
     We quickly maneuver through the center of the city. Navigating is really simple, but it does require a learning curve. There are dedicated street lanes for pedestrians, bicycles (including moped and scooters), cars and trains or trams, four in all. We quickly learned that its the cyclist that can do the most harm if you're not looking. Weather is no obstacle; many carried umbrellas or even talked on the phone. Some might stop at pedestrian crossings; most don't. Look both ways and be ready to move quickly when you find an opening.
    As the day ends, we walk through the night, stopping at a camera store where we share photography stories with a shop owner using the newest retro Polaroid, passing through the Red Light District where most windows' red lights shine alone with the exception of a woman in a black thong, by-passing a group of men in leather vests puffing on an inch of white rolled 'coffee,' and finally, Centraal Station where people rush in one side and out the other. We walk straight through and head toward the cruise terminal and pass out in our up-graded king size bed.

Festival of Lights during the Winter Season. Amsterdam

Downtown Amsterdam

Bikes along the canal bridge.

Ice skating in Rembrandt Park

It's the Christmas season in Amsterdam

Day 2 | Amsterdam

The day begins early for me. My internal clock rings at its usual time, 7 a.m. It's still dark here, and the sun (or daybreak) will not happen until around 9 a.m.
     It's rainy and gloomy. There are a few cars on the road, so the routine begins early this Friday morning. A few cyclists are out. The  yellow tram (train) is rushing by to the right. In the distance, a cruise ship makes its way down the waterway; less than an hour later, it's docked next door at the cruise ship terminal.
     I'm talking to my son who works nights and describe what I'm seeing. It's nice sharing my travels with him even though he's a world away. Last year, Len, the boys and myself were in Ireland. My son recognizes the similarities in the countries rain and gloom, but I must admit, there's something about this type of  weather that fills my soul. When I figure it out, I'll be sure to let you know
     We're getting started later, around 1 p.m. A canal tour this evening, including the Amsterdam Light Festival. For now, it's a Dutch icon.
     Our first stop for the day, the Heineken Experience, a conventional tourist draw similar to that of The Guinness Storehouse in Dublin. Your preference of beer will more than likely determine your best experience. I choose Guinness; there never was a choice. The Heineken Experience sifts through the brewing process, a lesson we have learned first-hand from the masters, so we move on to the history of the company, a light show and a peek at the horses. Our ticket assures us two beers at the end; we keep reminding ourselves of the two free beers upon the tour's conclusion. Finally to the end, and Len has lost his voucher. The world stopped turning and the angels ceased to sing. I gave him one of mine; we drank, and he pouted.    
     Unlike other breweries, Heineken puts you in the driver's seat of a server, pouring the perfect glass with the head sitting on top of the arms of the star logo. "Do it Len. Redemption for your lost vouchers." He bows his head with a pitiful "I'll give it a try" look and wanders to the front of the line of four competitors. After a crash course in pouring by the Dutchman, Len steps up, pulls the tap, raises his glass, fills it to the brim, scrapes the foam, and steps back. Four glasses, one winner. Yup, he's the master. Vindication for the man who lost his vouchers.
     Cost: 21 euros for the standard tour. There's more tours with more money involved. A fun afternoon, especially when you take home the prize.
     We walked over five miles yesterday; today, we'll decipher the tram. There are trains and trams. Trams will take you throughout the city with ease. A 24-hour pass is 7.50 euros. In fact, getting around the city is easy. Period.
     We catch the tram to the western part of the city, heading toward the meeting place for Those Dam Boat Guys canal tour. We find dry land at Cafe Wester, order some bites to eat and, of course, a Heineken.
    At 5 p.m., we meet Captain Dan for a small boat tour through the menagerie of canals. With only 10 on board, the voyage was intimate and cordial. Passengers from Belfast and Scotland drink the mulled wine and discuss the legalization of CBD oil. We learn of Captain Dan and his charity, Miracles of Love Columbia. He's making a trip to Montana next month to pick up a donated F150 and then he'll drive it to a village in Panama where the people need transportation and aid. All of his tips go directly to this cause. I find myself agreeing to my choice of canal tours. Not sure we'd discover another canal tour with a captain so philanthropic.
    We decide to walk back to the hotel since we've walked this same route for three days. We no longer have to pull up Waze.
    What's a holiday without room service, so tonight it's spaghetti bolognese and creme brulee. And of course, whenever room service is warranted, the usual single order of fries with ketchup.

In its first year, Mississippi Bar Kitchen is introducing the Dutch to authentic Southern cuisine, like Mississippi Mud Pie and Pecan Pie. Of course, there's Jack Daniels and Southern Comfort to round out the feel.

Cheers to Amsterdam

Day 3 | Amsterdam

Our bags must be packed, ticketed and placed outside our door by 10 a.m. for Viking representatives to transfer to the ship. Before we even arrive onboard, I'm beginning to understand their level of customer service.
    After a hearty breakfast at Movenpik, the southern part of the city becomes our destination. We think the IceBar is a good idea; that is, until we notice the worn furniture, messy floors and three over-sized bouncers guarding the door, all before 11 a.m. We look at each other, and although this might be the best place on earth, decide to follow our gut and walk on by. Next best thing, an English pub in Rembrandt Square with Guinness flowing. In the land of Dutch, drink Guinness. 
     As we sit, we pitch a story to an editor back in the states, of a Southern culinary discovery in Amsterdam, Mississippi Bar Kitchen. We get the go-ahead for the research, and with the restaurant opening at 4 p.m. and our having to be on the ship by 6 p.m., we strategically plan the afternoon. We will be at the restaurant at 4 p.m.; introduce, order, eat, pay, and ask questions and leave by 4:30 p.m.; then rush back, figuring out which trams will take us to the other side of town, all before 6 p.m.
     Exhale. It might work.
     We set foot on the ship at 5:43 p.m., just in time to check out our home for the week and plop down on the bed for two seconds before dinner. Let #myvikingjourney begin.

     Read the published story on Mississippi Bar Kitchen in DeSoto Magazine, April 2019.

When You Go

The Official Guide to Visiting Holland. Visit Holland: Amsterdam
Those Dam Boat Guys. Small groups of less than 20 with a guide.
Anne Frank House. MUST buy tickets online. 10 euros. Not recommended for mobility impaired.
Movenpick Hotel Amsterdam City Centre
Heineken Experience
Travelling Via Tram in Amsterdam
Mississippi Bar Kitchen

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[coming soon] Come Along Aboard the Viking Long Ship Down the Rhine River