Heading West, Key West That Is

january 15, 2014 | key west, florida | there's no in-between on this trip. one car ride. no stopping for anything except gas and bodily movements until we reach the key west city limits.
once you get there - however you get there - here's some stops and 'must-sees' in this southernmost city.

1. el patio motel

we usually stay at best western hibiscus (simonton), and yes, it's a convenient place that serves breakfast daily. but with such a great deal at el patio (washington), we couldn't pass up the chance to stay at a 'motel' and actually have a studio apartment for almost 30% less (than the best western) per night. if you're lucky enough to be attending the literary seminar in january, you get an extra 20% discount. you can't beat this in a town where everything is off-the-charts expensive. for example, we lunched at jimmy buffett's margariataville and walked out with a $90 lunch tab. nothing is ever as it seems, so look around. 

studio apartment located behind office, room 30

why it's a winner

• large studio apartment with own entrance and courtyard; privacy
  
• quiet neighborhood yet only about 3 blocks from duval
• roof top patio
• price -  a studio sleeps 4 comfortably AND it has old world character! the cleaning service isn't always dependable, but there are always clean towels and a made bed. perfection.

roof top patio

2. green parrot bar

it's been there since the late 1800s, and at times, it feels like it and smells like it. this dive serves live music and cold beer, no food with the exception of a help-yourself-popcorn kettle in the back. go on a sunday and you'll enjoy  live jazz, complete with harmonicas. their signature cocktail: a bloody mary. whitehead street, just down the street from the hemingway house.

3. glazed donuts

thank heaven for holes in the wall. named as one of the top 10 donut holes in the united states by usa today, glazed  over-sized homemade/handmade donuts takes the classic glaze and makes you forget about wanting a napkin. when they need a little more 'uhmp' for flavor, they add fresh fruit. they even have key lime! heaven with a hole! you might want to get lots, but i recommend getting only one (or whatever you plan to down this instant) and then returning for fresh ones each morning. on eaton street, beside tropic cinema. closes at 3 p.m.  "everything in moderation, including moderation."

key lime doughnut topped with WOW

4. finnegan's wake

come for the beer. stay for the food. leave with the staff.

located on grinnell street, near the ferry, it's got the usual irish fare of bangers & mash and my favorite, dublin chicken pot pie. you  must drop in during happy hour - every day from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. and 12-2 a.m. with no exceptions - for half price beer. there's live music and it's obvious there's a mix of locals and tourists, and anytime there's locals, you know you've hit the jackpot! celebrate in true irish style. arguably one of the best values in key west.

5. fort jefferson / dry tortugas

fort jefferson sits about 70 miles from key west in the middle of the gulf of mexico. garden key, as the land is known. the fort was built in 1846 to defend this strategic harbor (the dry tortugas) against a naval assault. it was used during the civil war as a union fort. although it saw no combat, it did serve as a federal prison and housed those whose crimes did not bring the death penalty. the most notorious prisoner was dr. samuel mudd, the doctor who set booth's leg after the assassination of president lincoln. he was later pardoned by president andrew johnson and released.

tortugas is spanish for turtles. ponce de leon found an amazing number on the islands, and dry  was added to inform mariners of no fresh water on the island.

getting there
there are few options: by private boat, ferry or sea plane. the yankee freedom provides day trips which includes 2 meals, beverages, and a guided tour, as well as snorkeling equipment. you can easily make reservations online, and do so far in advance of intended travel. coming and going is 2 1/2 hours each. be aware than trips are not cancelled due to inclement weather. cost is $170 per person. from 7:10 a.m. until 6:00 p.m. key west sea plane adventures provides two options - half day ($295 each) / full day ($515 each) trips. it's a 40 minute flight to and from the island. it's definitely a pricey adventure, but you figure, it's probably a once in a lifetime opportunity.
what to do
birdwatching - the 7 islands are layovers for birds traveling from south to north america. over 300 species have been spotted.
snorkeling - some of the most beautiful coral reefs in the gulf. look, but don't touch. (that's the rule on the entire island)
camping - with limited sites, make reservations early. what you bring in, you take out. there is nothing available on island

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6. capt. tony's saloon / sloppy joes / hog's breath saloon

all located right on or near duval street

you can leave your money or bra (on the ceiling) at captain tony's . . .

 . . . or cheese it up with the musicians at sloppy joes . . .

 . . . and even catch an athens' neighbor at hog's breath (mike head on piano)!

7. the hemingway house

there's all types of inspiration to be had in key west. it's the writer in me that is drawn to places like duncan street where tennessee williams lived and to whitehead street, where the public can visit the home of pauline and ernest hemingway who lived here from 1931 until 1940. you'll see the famous-named six-toed cats (direct descendants) and just across the street, the lighthouse that hemingway used as his guide toward home each night. surrounding the estate is a brick wall, bricks that hemingway 'found' on the streets of key west.  behind the main residence is a pool, key west's first fresh water pool, and then there's his writer's studio. the home is the largest residential property on the island. open daily, from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m. tour rates include a 30-minute guided tour, from $13 adults to $6 for children 6 and older.

8. key west cemetery

definitely one of the most spirited places in key west. its 19 acres are cramped quarters,  and now its new residents will be resting up. more people are buried here than currently live on the island. at the entrance, there are brochures for self-guided walking tours which will take you to some of the most notable inhabitants. there's soldiers, millionaires, paupers, cuban cigar makers and joe russell, aka sloppy joe. the tombstone of b.p. roberts with its epitaph of 'i told you i was sick' should put a smile on your face.  7 a.m. until 6 p.m.  free. corner of angela and margaret streets.