bermudiful, bermuda
astwood park at sunrise
the brillant poinciana
it had been years since i had heard bermuda + beautiful united. frankly, it's a logical concession. it doesn't take a traveler long - setting foot outside the airport terminal into the taxi and cruising over the causeway bridge - for eyes to drift out towards castle harbour and understand that not many places on earth are consumed by such crystal blue waters.
i remember the feeling almost immediately. the same breeze that rushes through the causeway rushes through the open window of my taxi and lifts my spirits and my expectations. flowers line the roadway - hibiscus, oleander, poinciana, jasmine - and their aromatic welcome eases my transition from stressful deadlines to effortless reality. the serpentine roads with scarcely room enough for two small cars still take my breath away as the driver zips around the curves, occasionally 'tooting' his horn at a passerby because everyone knows everyone here. bikes, scooters, and small cars own these streets, and as drivers become antsy with the slower ones, they zoom around and you think to yourself, 'he's from here.' tourists can be detected easily; they wear white rental helmets (helmets are required) and traffic is five-deep (at least) behind them.
i am an obvious tourist but this place feels like home.
it had been three years since my last trip to bermuda, and len and i have been told that tourism has changed. you really don't recognize it at first for this small st. georges airport is in constant motion with travelers, and you're bewildered that three simultaneous arrivals can cause such a backlog at customs. we waited patiently among the families with strollers. we were ushered to the waiting custom's agent, and then we conversed with him about the last university of georgia football game he attended. small world.
much like the united states, many speak of the downturn of the economy and for bermudians who rely on tourism dollars almost as much as they rely on their insurance/reinsurance businesses for financial security, these times are as rocky as their shoreline. however, most everyone you meet knows the gem that is bermuda, and they can't wait until you arrive.
i remember the feeling almost immediately. the same breeze that rushes through the causeway rushes through the open window of my taxi and lifts my spirits and my expectations. flowers line the roadway - hibiscus, oleander, poinciana, jasmine - and their aromatic welcome eases my transition from stressful deadlines to effortless reality. the serpentine roads with scarcely room enough for two small cars still take my breath away as the driver zips around the curves, occasionally 'tooting' his horn at a passerby because everyone knows everyone here. bikes, scooters, and small cars own these streets, and as drivers become antsy with the slower ones, they zoom around and you think to yourself, 'he's from here.' tourists can be detected easily; they wear white rental helmets (helmets are required) and traffic is five-deep (at least) behind them.
i am an obvious tourist but this place feels like home.
it had been three years since my last trip to bermuda, and len and i have been told that tourism has changed. you really don't recognize it at first for this small st. georges airport is in constant motion with travelers, and you're bewildered that three simultaneous arrivals can cause such a backlog at customs. we waited patiently among the families with strollers. we were ushered to the waiting custom's agent, and then we conversed with him about the last university of georgia football game he attended. small world.
much like the united states, many speak of the downturn of the economy and for bermudians who rely on tourism dollars almost as much as they rely on their insurance/reinsurance businesses for financial security, these times are as rocky as their shoreline. however, most everyone you meet knows the gem that is bermuda, and they can't wait until you arrive.
flatts village inlet
the william denslow home, illustrator of the wizard of oz
most travelers consider bermuda too rich for their blood, and rightly so. once you pay $7 for a jar of peanut butter or $5 for a loaf of bread, sticker shock confirms many preconceived notions. keep in mind that everything is imported and the bow-to-stern lined cargo ships in hamilton harbour tell the tale. the cost of living is higher, but so are the earnings. we met many canadians and englanders (especially college students) spending summers in bermuda to raise funds for the remaining year. minimum wage averages $18 an hour. there is no income tax but a land and import tax. if a resident purchases a new vehicle (one per family only), they pay 100% tax. $60 grand to BMW; $60 grand to the government.
for much of its history, citizens (bermudian citizenship is a complicated process) of this utopian society have kept non-citizens from buying property; that is allegedly until when recently, oprah winfrey tried to buy a $35 million estate in tucker's town and was told 'no.' she raised a ruckus after purchasing elsewhere, and the bermudian government realized what they had let slip away. the law has changed, and anyone - that has been granted a license from the minister of national security - can own a piece of this blue heaven - that is, if your pockets are deep enough.
since my pockets are shallow, bermuda will remain a holiday destination, one i consider well-worth waiting and saving for. if you plan ahead, the memories you will take home will far exceed the monies spent. the locals are absolutely the most gracious people, and once you figure out how to navigate around other tourists (those slow pesky ones on scooters - like me!), you are on your way to experiencing a culture that rests securely in the past and accelerating towards a brighter future. a must in bermuda: find a moongate. they are scattered throughout the island. legend dictates that if you're newly married and kiss underneath it's circle, you will have good luck. i believe in legends, and thus far, our luck has been extraordinary. thank you, bermuda.
for much of its history, citizens (bermudian citizenship is a complicated process) of this utopian society have kept non-citizens from buying property; that is allegedly until when recently, oprah winfrey tried to buy a $35 million estate in tucker's town and was told 'no.' she raised a ruckus after purchasing elsewhere, and the bermudian government realized what they had let slip away. the law has changed, and anyone - that has been granted a license from the minister of national security - can own a piece of this blue heaven - that is, if your pockets are deep enough.
since my pockets are shallow, bermuda will remain a holiday destination, one i consider well-worth waiting and saving for. if you plan ahead, the memories you will take home will far exceed the monies spent. the locals are absolutely the most gracious people, and once you figure out how to navigate around other tourists (those slow pesky ones on scooters - like me!), you are on your way to experiencing a culture that rests securely in the past and accelerating towards a brighter future. a must in bermuda: find a moongate. they are scattered throughout the island. legend dictates that if you're newly married and kiss underneath it's circle, you will have good luck. i believe in legends, and thus far, our luck has been extraordinary. thank you, bermuda.
father and son picnic at victoria park in the heart of downtown hamilton
the early 1600s chapel found on the hayden trust grounds overlooking the great sound
front street in downtown hamilton, the world's smallest capital city
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the chapel bible, open to the 23rd psalm
the clock tower at dockyard - built in 19th century as offices for british royal navy
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what makes bermuda beautiful?
here's the BEST of our 2014 10-day exploration
1. you can reside among the locals.
the best part: outside table for two
i will admit that this time around, our experience of renting from locals was not as pleasing as the first time. this property was not as well maintained or equipped as we gathered from the advertisement. i'm not sure if it was the musky smell, dirty kitchen or pot-smoking neighbor that irritated me most, but i was not happy. however, i'm going to go out on a limb and say that this was an exception. we have rented from bermuda accommodations on two separate occasions. they have numerous properties throughout bermuda in all price ranges, from lofts to entire homes. immediately, we made our concerns known to fiona campbell, president of the company who, most often, you work with directly. some compensation by the homeowner was made; however, it was the newport-to-bermuda race week and no alternate properties were available, so we had to make do as best we could.
after this setback, we started thinking about what protection a traveler has if he is not satisfied with a home rental, a question i have since raised with fiona. there is no written guarantee on the website nor included in the contract. we made our concerns known, and for now, we will see how they will be navigated. we have experienced the good and the not-s0-good, and in spite of this experience, we will continue to rent from homeowners. for the price, i'd much rather be there 10 days in a so-so rental than only 3 days in the taj mahal. hey, you're in bermuda; all will be fine.
here's the scoop:
cost for 10 night loft apartment rental - $1275 ($120 per night - paid to homeowner in cash upon arrival) with a $225 deposit at time of booking. all rentals follow the same deposit/payment process.
if you opt for a hotel stay, consider these samples prices. single hotel room rates per night (best available rate as of this date) range from $725 at elbow beach (paget parish) to $655 at the reefs (southhampton area); tucker's point (hamilton parish), $1,150; fairmont hamilton princess (downtown hamilton), $599; rosedon (downtown hamilton), $470; surfside (warwick parish, south shore road), $245; fairmont southhampton princess (warwick parish along south road) from $469. off-season (november - march) will be lower.
here's a hint:
many locals told us to check with real estate agencies. they offer rentals and most will negotiate pricing, length of stays, etc. one is brian s. alkon realty.
getting around:
taxis are everywhere and quite pricey. you can hire one to take you out for the evening or out for the day, as most taxi drivers double as tour guides. you can not rent vehicles. most visitors use public buses which run frequently from one end of the island to the other (remember pink stick signal hamilton, blue stick signal dockyard). we opted for scooters, costing approximately $300 for 10 days. we gassed up two scooters, three times during our stay - $60 total. it provides freedom and lets you explore the island on your timetable. we rented from oleander cycles. there's also elbow beach cycles and smatt cycles (the first cycle renter on the island). most will provide transportation to and from your hotel or home for pick-up or drop-off.
after this setback, we started thinking about what protection a traveler has if he is not satisfied with a home rental, a question i have since raised with fiona. there is no written guarantee on the website nor included in the contract. we made our concerns known, and for now, we will see how they will be navigated. we have experienced the good and the not-s0-good, and in spite of this experience, we will continue to rent from homeowners. for the price, i'd much rather be there 10 days in a so-so rental than only 3 days in the taj mahal. hey, you're in bermuda; all will be fine.
here's the scoop:
cost for 10 night loft apartment rental - $1275 ($120 per night - paid to homeowner in cash upon arrival) with a $225 deposit at time of booking. all rentals follow the same deposit/payment process.
if you opt for a hotel stay, consider these samples prices. single hotel room rates per night (best available rate as of this date) range from $725 at elbow beach (paget parish) to $655 at the reefs (southhampton area); tucker's point (hamilton parish), $1,150; fairmont hamilton princess (downtown hamilton), $599; rosedon (downtown hamilton), $470; surfside (warwick parish, south shore road), $245; fairmont southhampton princess (warwick parish along south road) from $469. off-season (november - march) will be lower.
here's a hint:
many locals told us to check with real estate agencies. they offer rentals and most will negotiate pricing, length of stays, etc. one is brian s. alkon realty.
getting around:
taxis are everywhere and quite pricey. you can hire one to take you out for the evening or out for the day, as most taxi drivers double as tour guides. you can not rent vehicles. most visitors use public buses which run frequently from one end of the island to the other (remember pink stick signal hamilton, blue stick signal dockyard). we opted for scooters, costing approximately $300 for 10 days. we gassed up two scooters, three times during our stay - $60 total. it provides freedom and lets you explore the island on your timetable. we rented from oleander cycles. there's also elbow beach cycles and smatt cycles (the first cycle renter on the island). most will provide transportation to and from your hotel or home for pick-up or drop-off.
2. you can experience high tea in an english garden.
the tea garden at the bermuda perfumery, st. georges
high tea is one of the romantic english rituals that, well, i just had to experience once. it was amazing, and it sustained my effortless reality.
sweet p
at the bermuda perfumery (st. georges)
wednesday - saturday, 1 p.m. - 5 p.m.
paula hayward will serve you delicious cakes, hot from the oven scones and hackney english teas.
$28 per person, cash only, reservations suggested
sweetpbermuda@hotmail.com
fairmont hamilton princess
daily, 2:30 - 5 p.m.
tea, miniature sandwiches and cakes
$34 per person, reservations required
sweet p
at the bermuda perfumery (st. georges)
wednesday - saturday, 1 p.m. - 5 p.m.
paula hayward will serve you delicious cakes, hot from the oven scones and hackney english teas.
$28 per person, cash only, reservations suggested
sweetpbermuda@hotmail.com
fairmont hamilton princess
daily, 2:30 - 5 p.m.
tea, miniature sandwiches and cakes
$34 per person, reservations required
3. you get to set foot in 1609.
visiting bermuda is a living history lesson. and if you look closely and take advantage of all the opportunities, you'll get to know these british onions. yes, long before there were vidalia onions there were bermuda onions. they cultivated them throughout the 19th century, and anyone that was born here came to be known as an 'onion.' the nickname stuck.
"i am a gossip and a nag."
the ducking stool located in the middle of olde town st. georges offers visitors a retrospective at the justice of the 1600s. it's a major attraction for tourists and more than likely, you'll see a group of school children cheering on the ducking, too!
daily at noon in olde town
the arrival of the governor george ferguson by carriage
heroes day, celebrated the third monday in june, honors those who have been officially designated as heroes by the government. once a hero, always a hero. take a look at these attributes: enriching the lives of others, dedication and commitment, self-sacrificing, consistency and passion, ethical and a risk-taker. and on this heroes day in 2014, they also celebrated the queen's birthday with a parade. not a bad monday!
downtown hamilton
rocky cliffs at the far end of coopers reserve
the first of many coves we had to ourselves
two longtails in flight
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cooper's island nature reserve covers the south eastern tip of st. davids. once used by US government agencies like the army, air force and navy, it has been reclaimed by the bermudian government. it was also previously a NASA tracking station. today, these 12 acres are unspoiled and are now being restored to their natural state. there are public beaches - clearwater is not to be missed - and shallow waters, making this a great location for spotting turtles. the coves were white with the flight of the longtails. make the trek to the most remote tip and experience the rocky coastline. if you're lucky, you'll have the beaches to yourself. experience gombeys bar and restaurant (located at the entrance to clearwater beach), the only beach bar on the island. locals rave about it's bbq, and trust me, bermudians know their bbq. free admission to the reserve |
fort scaur is located on the highest hill in somerset and was built in the 1870s. used as protection of the royal naval dockyard from any attacks, especially from the americans. british soldiers were positioned here during wwi, and the american soldiers were here during wwii. it's now 22 acres of trails, picnic areas and a walking museum through the underground tunnels.
free admission open daily from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. |
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the royal naval cemetery is located in sandys parish just before you reach the royal naval dockyard. since 1809, this land has been used for burial of navy personnel and their families. many died of yellow fever; some were lost at sea.
free admission
free admission
the commissioner's house is the royal dockyard's shining star. until 1951, she was called a ship, the HMS malabar. it was the first residential house in the western hemisphere to be made of cast iron; its walls are made from bermuda limestone. after years of neglect, restoration was completed in 2000, and today, it is the national museum of bermuda, including its maritime museum. see shipwreck artifacts, cannons, watercrafts, maritime art and more. it's also an amazing venue for a wedding!
spring and summer schedule, 9:30 a.m. - 5 p.m.
$12 admission
spring and summer schedule, 9:30 a.m. - 5 p.m.
$12 admission
verdmont museum is perched atop collectors hill in smith's parish and is maintained by the bermuda national trust. this georgian style home was built in the early 1700s and was a private residence until 1951. all furnishings are period. many pieces are made of bermuda cedar; some were brought by early sea captains. a most impressive piece, the early 19th century piano imported from england.
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$5 admission
wednesday - friday, 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. |
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don't miss these
historical places. . . . from the water . . .
on captain kirk's glassbottom boat tour visiting the vixen wreck
from the shore . . .
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bermuda botanical gardens and masterworks. camden house. devonshire
bermuda aquariam and zoo. flatts village the unfinished church. st. georges fort st. catherine. st. georges heydon trust. sandys parish spittal pond nature reserve. smiths parish crystal caves and fantasy caves. hamilton parish one rule we travel by: you must see your destination from the water. there is no other vantage point that will tell its narrative. take a tour, dive a wreck, sit back and relax, but get on the water. we have traveled with these four and they are great with safety and stories. just go!
famous homes and hideaways tour. dockyard
captain kirk's coral reef adventures. dockyard blue water divers & watersports. somerset bridge, sandy's parish. fantasea diving & watersports. dockyard. 
on famous homes and hideways tour sailing from dockyard, past the cruise ship landing, heading toward hamilton
horseshoe bay. bermuda's most famous (and most crowded) pink sandy beach, complete with changing area, snack bar and umbrella/chair rentals (south shore)
jobson's cove. clear waters with jagged cliffs (south shore) clearwater beach. clear waters with almost private beaches (st. davids) warwick long bay. one-half mile long with amazing rock formations (south shore) |
4. you get to eat scrumptious food.
fresh bermuda fish at mickey's
there's no longing for good food. you'll have to do without your fast-food fix - sans the lone kentucky fried chicken restaurant in downtown hamilton - for there are no chains on the island. with our extended stay, we opted to splurge on a few evening meals during our stay and graze the remainder of the time, stopping in at local cafes for the occasional sweet and cold concoction. stocking our kitchen with the feel of home - diet coke, peanut butter and nutella, various cheeses and crackers, jams and butter, and fresh breads - we could snack ourselves into the occasional high-priced meal and never feel guilty.
give these spots a try. for evening meals, remember to always make reservations to avoid long waits.
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high-end, pricey and worth every penny
reservations required, dress code casual dining, reservations recommended
don't miss these
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mickey's beach bistro. located at elbow beach club, it's right on the south shore sand. amazing food. amazing atmosphere. perfection!
ascots. inside the royal palms hotel, near hamilton. elegant and romantic. samuelsson at HP. chef marcus samuelsson's new restaurant opens may 2015 at the hamilton princess. lobster pot. a 40-year bermuda tradition. bermudiana road in hamilton. try the fish chowder.
the pickled onion. hip and fun second-story restaurant and watering hole on front street, hamilton. frog and onion pub. in royal naval dockyard, a traditional english pub and brewery. fish and chips, y'all. white horse pub. one of the oldest on the island and located in st. georges on the waterfront, white horse serves fresh local wahoo. lemon tree cafe. located on queen street in hamilton, fresh wraps and sandwiches, plus hot entrees. eat around the lemon tree out back.
island cuisine. on middle road in southhampton, eat with the locals. |
5. you get views that will sustain you until your next time.
TRAVEL NOTES.
1. global entry. apply for global entry to expedite travel into the united states for low-risk travelers. it's as easy as a passport, fingerprints and customs declaration. must be pre-approved which includes interview (held at atlanta airport) and background check. $100 application fee.
2. airport parking. for long-term parking, there's no better choice than airport parking reservations. choose your hotel. make online reservations and save the hassle and your money. atlanta airport marriott, $6 a day.
1. global entry. apply for global entry to expedite travel into the united states for low-risk travelers. it's as easy as a passport, fingerprints and customs declaration. must be pre-approved which includes interview (held at atlanta airport) and background check. $100 application fee.
2. airport parking. for long-term parking, there's no better choice than airport parking reservations. choose your hotel. make online reservations and save the hassle and your money. atlanta airport marriott, $6 a day.
seeing southern selfies
