May 2016
seeing grenada
Grenada is our jumping off point. Our Windjammer experience starts in a couple of days at Granada's Port Authority. We're newbies to the islands, so we arrived two days early to take the opportunity to explore as much of this Southern Caribbean paradise as possible. First stop upon landing, the Blue Horizons Garden Resort (BLUE), a resort infused with the tropical beauty of palms, oleanders, mango, and hibiscus, that sits atop a hill a mere 300 yards from the iconic Grand Anse beach. It will be home for two days.
Family run since the 1970s, the Hopkin family makes you feel like family. What a glorious sanctuary Arnold has created for his family and his visitors. Our room is #29. In Grenada, up is better, thus guaranteeing a breath-taking view. So we climb steps; after two climbs, we discover shortcuts! There's 32 guestrooms (all suites and most with a private patio) and as lovely as they are, do not compare with its exquisite tropical forest surroundings. Not only are the grounds an education in Grenadian plants but a habitat for over 27 species of tropical birds. The resort is Green Globe certified with its daily operations and sustainable practices a game changer in hotel tourism. Even more special are their employees. We met Allison and Monica (upper left) each morning for breakfast, and each morning, we were greeted with smiles and a new story of where we should visit. Located near the town of St. George's, BLUE is a short bus ride to the downtown area and a short walk to the mall where you'll find a grocery store, a cigar shop and an luscious smoothie stop (try the peanut butter one). Centrally located, Blue Horizons will be our first and last stop wherever we visit again. We adore a personal greeting, breakfast included, wi-fi, access to Grand Anse Beach, kitchenette, and a clear view of the rain forest with our morning coffee.
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We extended our trip once we disembarked form the Windjammer to decompress, as they say. This time, our taxi would take us to True Blue Bay Boutique Resort, located on the south coast of Grenada about a 20 minute drive from the downtown area. It was the final days of the island's Chocolate Festival, and this night would be their final party. We arrived early, and although we requested early check-in, we had to wait bar-side for more than three hours. Once in the room, we enjoyed a spacious kitchen/livingroom/bedroom and fabulous bathroom, complete with a balcony overlooking the bay. The man-made beach area is tiny, but the pool area is perfect. Just outside, we watched Aquanauts Grenada usher dozens of scuba divers in and out during the day. Check with True Blue about adding scuba to your stay. Another interesting fact: we've all heard about the underwater sculpture park near Cancun, Mexico. Did you know that the first one was in Grenada? In 2006, the sculpture was added within the Grenada Marine Park. Aquanauts can arrange a snorkel trip here.
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We proved that you never have to leave True Blue to have it all. The Dodgy Dock Restaurant fed our appetite and the Truebluetique added to our souvenir total (spices, plus a trendy island hat and a huge handmade straw bag which made the perfect carry-on). We never tire of room service or free wi-fi or breakfast included. Try the cocoa tea each morning.
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Although we can only attest to what we actually ate, we can confirm that unique food and condiments are alive and well on this lovely island. Dining at the La Belle Creole Restaurant and Bar (Blue Horizons Garden Resort) was nothing short of a religious experience. It can be as formal or as casual as you like as they offer somewhat of a farm-to-table experience, Creole/Indian style. Bonmateni - good morning in Creole - brought fresh fruits and nutmeg and cinnamon pancakes or French toast. Dinner shined with Seared Mahi-Mahi, and to our delight, Twice Baked Callaloo Souffle with spicy tomato fondue, Blue's signature appetizer. Much like spinach, the callaloo was outstanding; a risk taken gladly. And don't forget the chocolate souffle for desert. No words!
At True Blue, we stuck with the tried and true: burgers. Quite tasty for sure, especially when paired with their local ale, Carib Lager. We did hear from a reliable source that the best burger can be found at Umbrellas Beach Bar. Next time!
At True Blue, we stuck with the tried and true: burgers. Quite tasty for sure, especially when paired with their local ale, Carib Lager. We did hear from a reliable source that the best burger can be found at Umbrellas Beach Bar. Next time!
Grenada is actually a series of islands - Carriacou, Petite Martinique plus other smaller islands, all making up the Grenadines (see the Windjammer experience for more coverage). It is only a 100 miles north of Venezuela. We visit in May, the beginning of the rainy season. It has been unseasonably dry up to this point, and people are welcoming the rain. As you travel north into the rain forest, it becomes the lush country you expect. But in St. George's, it's dry and the fruits and spices are experiencing the wrath of its heat.
Arrival in Grenada can be by air or sea. The Maurice Bishop International Airport services a few flights (American and Delta), while the ocean waters are full of large boats and sailing vessels moving in and out of the ports and marinas. It's currency is Eastern Caribbean (EC) which is about $2.67 (at the time of our visit) for the American $1. Many stores/hotels accept the dollar; however, convert dollars at the airport upon arrival to avoid having to find the few existing ATM machines. Cruise season is over, so the taxi stands and local tour guides won't see these crowds until late fall. We thought of renting a car, but quickly decided it was a a little too much for our constitution after riding in buses (a van by American standards) and taxis. Not for the faint of heart, but by all means, take the bus. Small narrow, steep roads with lots of honking horns. It is best to let those who do it best, do it. In May, it's about 85 degrees, still hot by most standards. Yes, you can drink the water. English is the official language, but there are those whose conversations are still sprinkled with French.
Grand Anse Beach
Saturday Market in St. George's
It's Saturday morning in St. George's. Hundreds of people merge into the city's center as locals heap tables and stalls with local produce, spices and crafts. Spices: paprika - cinnamon - saffron - nutmeg - mace - chili pepper - clove - bay leaf - curry - cocoa. Fresh vegetables: tomatoes, peppers, sweet potatoes, eggplant. Fruit: hands of bananas, plantains, coconuts. Don't miss the opportunity to be immersed in the island culture, and spices for $1 (US) are always a good idea.
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fort george
Our local guide Randy takes off his hat as we enter the structures in Fort George. It's St. George's highest point, and lies west of the harbor and is the country's oldest fort, built in 1705. It provides a 360 degree view of the town's red tiled roofs, but this is not the reason visitors (and locals) come. Within the walls, Grenada's Prime Minister Maurice Bishop and his supporters were executed against this wall on October 19, 1983. What followed was the U.S. / Caribbean invasion in 1983. To most, it remains a very spiritual place.
heading north from St. george's
Our local guide for today is Mandoo of Mandoo Tours. Len and I are joined by another guest, and we head as far north as possible in order to make it back to the Port by 4 p.m. We begin our bumpy tour at a rocket pace as Mandoo heads out of the city and up the steep rural one-lane road which quickly turns into a two-lane to accommodate oncoming traffic. The drivers' preferred form of communication: honking horns in differing cadence! He stops on a dime (throughout our journey) and holds conversation with people walking along the road or sitting in their living room, just beyond eyesight. Everyone seems to know Mandoo. Our first encounter is with Charlie (lower left). He sits in his small open-air structure on the left side of the road; on the opposite side is his mural of tires, decorated in the colors or Grenada, accented by words to live by. Mandoo tells us that rather than thinking about how bad things are, Charlie decides to make beauty with what he has been given. "If you're nice to the environment," says Mandoo, "It will be nice to you." Charlie wants to make people happy. Mandoo also tells us that Charlie knows the value of tourism, of visitors coming to the island. It boosts the economy, therefore making a better life possible for he and his family. Charlie, as well as Mandoo, are trying to share this with the youth of the community. The unemployment rate is at 40 percent, Mandoo says; the HIV infected rate for people under 25 is nearly 60 percent. Through education, these two hope to change all that. "Age is a bitch," says Mandoo. "Every day is precious." Charlie and Mandoo are trying to change their country's future course by changing attitudes of the young and of those who visit their homeland. The economic struggle is obvious; the advancements are clear, too. The modern National Cricket Stadium and the historical Fort Frederick and Fort George. The juxtaposition of the new and the old display the riches of the country and a proud people.
We make our way to Concord Falls (lower left), one of the more easily accessible waterfalls on the island. We're heading further north to the Grand Etang National Park. In hopes of finding monkeys there, Mandoo stops, as he does each day, to buy bananas from this lady (lower right) and her young daughter. He supports the locals, he says. Further up, he stops abruptly in the middle of the road. "You okay?" he shouts toward a one-room shack on the left side of a hill. From the darkness, a woman appears in the doorway. The lady who lives inside is 90 years old. Her husband died about 15 years back, and she rarely makes it down to the city. Mandoo, as well as her neighbors, makes it his responsibility to check on the older ones.
At Concord Falls, this man sold me earrings made from black coral. Tourism boosts the economy, and it becomes a necessary part for travelers to give back. Support the locals and their trades.
There are stories of local culture. The "zombie tree" (lower left) is nothing more than ping-pong balls at the cactus tips. It keeps the zombies away from their houses, Mandoo says and then laughs. Further along, we interrupt the man at the area's "washing machine."
Further north, the forest as well as the spice trees become dense. Most spices are found on private property, and they come with a warning. This is nutmeg (right) and the red shell is mace. Inside, you'll find the nutmeg which is for sweetness; mace, savory.
Time is defined by Hurricane Ivan which struck in September of 2004. Descriptions of events or of landscapes are given in pre-and-post Ivan directives. Post Ivan: the only two palm trees to survive the Cat 3 storm's wrath. The country is still recovering and rebuilding.
It's the Grand Etang National Park, elevation 1,900 feet. It's a hiker's dream featuring the Grant Etang Lake and Seven Sisters Falls which takes you deep into the rain forest.
Back to the harbor in St. George's. Our quick glimpse of the country gave us only a brief understanding of the needs of the people and the richness of the country. One thing we know for sure, that tour guide Mandoo; Randy at the Taxi Stand; Allison and Monica at Blue as well as Blue's owner Arnold; Charlie along side the road; the woman selling bananas from her home - they all LOVE their country. The warmth of the people and their inviting nature told us all we needed to know about Grenada. Europeans have been traveling here for decades, even making it their retirement destination. Grenadians are hoping that American's will discover the charm of their country and begin an endless love affair with their people and their culture.
