September 2018
Two Coots Go Greek
It was always on our bucket list; we just didn't think the opportunity would present itself so quickly. With the nudge of the International Food Wine Travel Writers Association and Sofia Bournatzi of PASS PARTOUT Tourism Marketing, we eagerly packed our bags and pegged September as our month of everything Greece.
Our journey would begin in Athens, with only enough time to roam this ancient city and scratch the surface of it's historical and cultural wealth. Then, a short flight to Thessaloniki, we would spend a week in the northern region of Greece, experiencing the beauty of Halkidiki.
With that time frame in mind, we had to assemble the best of what Greece had to offer in a short time. Sadly, we would not be able to explore the islands, but we have decided that that is a journey for another time, when we can do it justice.
So we'll start at the beginning in Athens, during a hot and humid September.
If you have a short amount of time in Athens, here's our suggestions and a snapshot of how to see some really cool sites (in two days) whose size and scope can easily overwhelm.
Our journey would begin in Athens, with only enough time to roam this ancient city and scratch the surface of it's historical and cultural wealth. Then, a short flight to Thessaloniki, we would spend a week in the northern region of Greece, experiencing the beauty of Halkidiki.
With that time frame in mind, we had to assemble the best of what Greece had to offer in a short time. Sadly, we would not be able to explore the islands, but we have decided that that is a journey for another time, when we can do it justice.
So we'll start at the beginning in Athens, during a hot and humid September.
If you have a short amount of time in Athens, here's our suggestions and a snapshot of how to see some really cool sites (in two days) whose size and scope can easily overwhelm.
Acropolis and the Parthenon
There's no escaping the fact that you must climb this mountain, the Acropolis (UNESCO World Heritage Site). I did it with a bum foot, so there's no excuse. Young or old, this is one of those moments that might define your perspective of life.
First, buy the ticket: For 30 euros, this pass entitles you entrance into these archaeological sites:
Although the current scaffolding and machinery needed for the restoration detracted from our perfect photo, you get a sense of the massive effort underway to preserve this ancient treasure for future generations. The restoration is scheduled to be completed in 2020.
First, buy the ticket: For 30 euros, this pass entitles you entrance into these archaeological sites:
- The Acropolis of Athens
- The Ancient Agora of Athens and the Museum of the Ancient Agora
- Kerameikos and the Archaeological Museum of Kerameikos
- The Temple of Olympian Zeus (Olympieio)
- The Roman Agora of Athens and the Tower of the Winds
- Hadrian’s Library
- Aristotle’s Lyceum (Archaeological site of Lykeion)
Although the current scaffolding and machinery needed for the restoration detracted from our perfect photo, you get a sense of the massive effort underway to preserve this ancient treasure for future generations. The restoration is scheduled to be completed in 2020.
Acropolis Museum
Located at the foothills of the Acropolis, the modern Acropolis Museum houses more than 3,000 artifacts from the Acropolis. Entrance to the museum is NOT included in the archaeological sites ticket; however, entrance is only 5 euros, but be prepared to wait in line.
You'll be ushered through security, and there are no bags or backpacks allowed in the museum (you can check them on the first level). Photography is only allowed on certain levels.
You'll be ushered through security, and there are no bags or backpacks allowed in the museum (you can check them on the first level). Photography is only allowed on certain levels.
Changing of the Guards
The ceremony of it all! Don't miss this experience.
In Syntagma Square, home to the Greek Parliament and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, every hour, on the hour, the guard rotates in dramatic fashion. Located in Athens center, two small guard posts shelter the presidential guard and honor Greece's history.
Greek soldiers called Evzons or Tsoliades are in their traditional pleated skirt uniform and shoes tipped with a red or black ball called a foonda. These hand-picked troops must be under the age of 25, be taller than 1.80 meters (5'10") and be of outstanding character. Each guard stands for one hour, three times every 48 hours. They work in pairs for precise movement and rhythm.
On Sundays, at 11 a.m., the full contingent is there in full ceremonial garb.
In Syntagma Square, home to the Greek Parliament and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, every hour, on the hour, the guard rotates in dramatic fashion. Located in Athens center, two small guard posts shelter the presidential guard and honor Greece's history.
Greek soldiers called Evzons or Tsoliades are in their traditional pleated skirt uniform and shoes tipped with a red or black ball called a foonda. These hand-picked troops must be under the age of 25, be taller than 1.80 meters (5'10") and be of outstanding character. Each guard stands for one hour, three times every 48 hours. They work in pairs for precise movement and rhythm.
On Sundays, at 11 a.m., the full contingent is there in full ceremonial garb.
Walk the Plaka
Located in the shadows of the Acropolis is Athens' oldest neighborhood, Plaka. Most of the streets are closed to motor traffic and are filled with tourists on the prowl for souvenirs or Greek eateries and cafes. The two main pedestrian streets are Kydathineon and Adrianou. From these two, streets branch out into very commercialized and crowded areas; even though it is such, the charm still remains. Don't forget the ouzo!
Wind through Anafiotika
Completely by accident (which is the BEST way to discover), we found ourselves winding through the shade of the Acropolis. We purchased our tickets for the Acropolis and opted to go the next day; so today, we would roam. And in doing so, we found ourselves in an island-inspired white and blue labyrinth of charming windows (my weakness), narrow alleyways rounded at the bottom from countless footsteps, graceful winding staircases, endless cats and the aroma of dinner wafting through the tiny home spaces. It was our perfect introduction to the city of Athens.
Mount Lycabettus
Confession. We didn't make it to the mount, but from every spot in Athens (much like the Parthenon), Lycabettus can be seen. This is one of the two best places to photograph the Acropolis. The second vantage point for outstanding views, Philopapou Hill. Located right across from the Acropolis, Len made his way to the top.
If the mountain strikes your fancy and you have time, there's a road and a train that can take you to the top. In addition to the view, there's cafes and theaters to enhance the experience.
If the mountain strikes your fancy and you have time, there's a road and a train that can take you to the top. In addition to the view, there's cafes and theaters to enhance the experience.
Customized Sandals from the Poet
What other place in the world can you buy the original sandal? Yes, it's here folks! Where sandals all started. Thanks to the Greeks for weaving and sliding leather strips together, forming this scant masterpiece in the form of the foot. And at Melissinos Art - The Poet Sandal Maker shop in Athens city center, Pantelis Melissinos will do the same.
Prepare for a line of return customers and eager first-timers.
I left with John Lennon art on my feet!
Prepare for a line of return customers and eager first-timers.
I left with John Lennon art on my feet!
EAT!
Geros tou Moria.
That's all you need to know. Located in the Plaka district, it's a traditional Greek tavern with fried cheese, Greek salad, Souvlaki, and baklava (which will make you question why you didn't eat here every night)! Throw in the bouncing Greek dancers, the serenades of Opa!, and the best seat in the joint, this is where our best food memories were made!
This eatery, like many others, transformed to the shape of the space they were provided, spreading out from one building to the next, encompassing walkways and stairways. Some had enclosed dining rooms; others perched intimate tables along the sides of steeply inclined alleyways. Pedestrians made their way from the top street to bottom street right through the heart of the restaurant, all the while, you're enjoying your dinner. People watching at its finest!
That's all you need to know. Located in the Plaka district, it's a traditional Greek tavern with fried cheese, Greek salad, Souvlaki, and baklava (which will make you question why you didn't eat here every night)! Throw in the bouncing Greek dancers, the serenades of Opa!, and the best seat in the joint, this is where our best food memories were made!
This eatery, like many others, transformed to the shape of the space they were provided, spreading out from one building to the next, encompassing walkways and stairways. Some had enclosed dining rooms; others perched intimate tables along the sides of steeply inclined alleyways. Pedestrians made their way from the top street to bottom street right through the heart of the restaurant, all the while, you're enjoying your dinner. People watching at its finest!
Stay!
I can't imagine a more perfect location than Parthenon Hotel. Steps from the Acropolis, this Airotel property - specifically room 512 - tucked us in, gave us views (and a balcony), made us happy and fed our soul. That's high praise from travelers who have seen the best and the worst of accommodations. Convenience was only trumped by the impeccable service; when they met me outside the hotel's door in the tiniest of streets, grabbed my luggage and offered me juice, well, I knew I was home.
And it was during breakfast one morning we met Athina. Just the night before she had said goodbye to a tour group she had introduced to Greece. We know that because we were in the middle of it all. After a long day of walking, we planted ourselves in the bar during the hotel's Happy Hour with flowing happy drinks, as they say, and we found ourselves engulfed by Athina's tour group, saying farewell to their thorough and charming leader. Len and I looked at each and smiled, agreeing silently that we understood their excitement for the journey and the sadness for its conclusion.
At breakfast, Len spoke first and told her of our travels and where we were headed. For an hour, she sat with us and made a list of things we must do. We carried that paper with us to every destination and followed her advice. She was the best of Greece.
And it was during breakfast one morning we met Athina. Just the night before she had said goodbye to a tour group she had introduced to Greece. We know that because we were in the middle of it all. After a long day of walking, we planted ourselves in the bar during the hotel's Happy Hour with flowing happy drinks, as they say, and we found ourselves engulfed by Athina's tour group, saying farewell to their thorough and charming leader. Len and I looked at each and smiled, agreeing silently that we understood their excitement for the journey and the sadness for its conclusion.
At breakfast, Len spoke first and told her of our travels and where we were headed. For an hour, she sat with us and made a list of things we must do. We carried that paper with us to every destination and followed her advice. She was the best of Greece.
Our Greek adventure started with three days in Athens, and that was only the beginning. We could have been there three weeks and still not experienced all the treasures that were before us. Like every destination we visit, we make a "next time" list. Our next time Athens list is quite extensive, and it definitely includes more sandals!
More of the journey coming soon! We hope you'll join us.
More of the journey coming soon! We hope you'll join us.
