Ending three full weeks and we’re packing our bags
The ending of a trip is a complete juxtaposition to its beginning. The anticipation at the beginning and the sadness upon leaving stand on equal footings. Although we still have another week before we return to America, we’re changing scenery from this beautiful harbor town to an Aeolian Island, Salina. As we always end each trip (or begin a trip depending on our mental state), we search for a destination that we would never have considered otherwise. So, we are going to Hotel Ravesi - sadly, I must say I discovered it via TikTok - and soak up what is turning out to be an intensely hot Italian sun.
We leave Castellammare with memories and confirmation of Len’s Italian citizenship. However, I am not registered as his wife, which will allow me privilege to remain in the country. When we completed the process years ago for Len’s dual citizenship, all the required documents were forwarded to the Miami consulate; however, only certain documents were sent to the commune in Castellammare for his registration. Len’s tiny blue file only contained birth records of his grandparents, his mother as well as his, not our marriage. Having brought the license and translation with us, it worked until the commune realized the translation had not been certified by a ‘certifed’ translator in the city. So close. We found a translator through the commune, drove to the next town, delivered her our documents, paid her an obscene amount of euros to confirm the translation and counted on her to deliver it to the officials before the end of July. She did, and we are waiting.
Can we live in Italy for an extended period of time? Len can stay forever. I can stay for two years on a digital nomad visa. If our marriage is registered, we were told I can stay forever as well (still confirming that). Our Italian dream is to own a small apartment in the city centre; truth be told, I don’t want the responsibility. I just want to go, enjoy, savor, immerse, play and not worry about taking care of anything. So not purchasing is in our future.
But, long term rental is doable. Trying to decide on the season to visit might just be the hardest thing. May was perfect; heat was approaching quickly as the end of June rolled around. In August, the Italians vacation, so that’s not an option. We thought the fall (which is a less expensive season to travel) would be ideal, but I love my mountains and treasure the North Carolina autumn. And winter, the majority of restaurants and shops are closed, which makes exploration limited. We think spring is the ideal time.
We also learned that the language is a struggle. Don’t let anyone tell you it’s easy not knowing Italian. And in Sicily, it’s not true Italian; it is the old Sicilian dialect. However, making an attempt to learn words and phrases makes the locals happy, and most are eager to help you understand and a few even offer to give you a speedy common phrase.
Americans live life wrong. Italy understands the sheer pleasure of everyday life, of spending time with family, enjoying meals that last for hours, work when you must and rest when you must. Every day, the chaos shuts down around 1:30 p.m. and doesn’t resume until 8 p.m. Some restaurants and shops open around 6:30 p.m. to satisfy the eager American travelers who need time to adjust to late meals. Many times, we were the first to arrive in the evening. Our habits gave us away. I became accustomed to stopping my work in the afternoon and resting. Shutting my eyes, clearing my brain of the noise until the evening came. When I returned home, I caught myself following the exact schedule - for a while, and then I forgot. I don’t want to forget.
Take me back to Sicily. If I ever disappear, you’ll know where the find me. In the tiny apartment, overlooking a busy cobblestone street, across from an old woman who smokes in the evening and drops her TV antenna out the window in the afternoon, near the fruit and vegetable market next to the street vendor where I bought the 10 euro floppy hat, two doors down from the man who yelled “Ciao Bella” and reminded me that, indeed, everything is more beautiful here.
