Solice on the island of Salina
The infinity pool from Hotel Ravesi overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea. Ahead, views of islands Panarea and Stromboli.
Salina is the green heart of the Aeolian Islands — a small, volcanic gem floating in the Tyrrhenian Sea just off Sicily's northern coast. It's the second largest of the seven Aeolian Islands, and it's also the richest in vegetation and water of the entire archipelago — earning it the nickname "the Green Island.” Salina is formed by twin extinct volcanoes, Monte Fossa delle Felci and Monte dei Porri, whose slopes are covered in vineyards, wild capers, and gorse instead of ash and rock.
Life here moves at the pace of the island itself: unhurried. Salina is home to just around 2,300 residents, spread across three small towns — Santa Marina Salina, the main port, along with Malfa and Leni. No big resorts, no crowds pushing past you on narrow streets — just pastel houses, terraced hillsides, and views that stretch out over impossibly blue water.
Salina produces the prized Malvasia delle Lipari wine and is famous for its capers, both of which show up in nearly everything you'll eat here — pastas, salads, even gelato.
For hikers, the two volcanic peaks offer trails with sweeping views across the whole archipelago. For everyone else, Salina is simply a place to slow all the way down — to sip Malvasia on a terrace.
Hotel Ravesi is our respite while on the island, a family-owned property for over 100 years that feels like home. We didn’t expect to feel this comfortable, but it was exactly what we needed at the long stretch of being in Sicily for almost a month. Everything slowed down. The infinity pool was the prescription for stress while the gardens offered a lovely place to simply sit and inhale the sea breezes.
Located off main street and adjacent to Church of San Lorenzo, Hotel Ravesi is not big but perfect. Walk the main street at night, enjoy the children playing soccer in the park and choose from only a few eateries open. Slow down during aperitivo and savor the drink and the moment.
How to get to Hotel Ravesi from Sicily: From the marina in Palermo, take the ferry (almost 3 hours, Liberty Lines) or hydrofoil (almost 2 hours to Salina and the port of Rinella (near the village of Leni) or its primary port, Santa Marina Salina). We arrived at Rinella. The hotel will arrange transfer to the hotel. From Rinella, it’s about 20 minute drive and the drive allows you to see the island. Make reservations for ferry ahead of time in order to get the times you desire. The hotel provides electric scooters and bicycles. Hotel Ravesi is closed from October until early spring.
From one of the hotel’s verandas, land filled with grape vines as well as other produce: capers, olives and figs.
Malfa is small but provides enough for the visitor who is simply getting away from chaos. It is untouched by the rush which is exactly what was required. We walked through the church; in the alcove we could hear the sounds of the World Cup playing. We couldn’t help but laugh. Small shops provide necessities. There is a bottega with wines and cheeses, a farmacia. On the corner, La Rosa Dei Venti serves pastries plus gelato, and my favorite fish dish of the journey. Fish covered with pistachio and capers, of course. U Cucunciu is located next door to our hotel, and we dine there for pizza. A very good rendition. The locals sit at Bar Malvasia for aperitivo while we return to the hotel for ours.
Goodbyes came much too quickly at the end of our three night stay. When we arrived, we were frazzled from the rush of the mainland and the crazy traffic of Palermo. Leaving, we were refreshed and ready to go home. We slowed down, enjoyed the views and each other. Every moment in this remote village was worth it. Until next time . . .
