24 hours in Bay St. Louis, Mississippi
You could drive along Coastal Mississippi, but now, why would you?
With last year’s launch of Amtrak Mardi Gras Service which travels from New Orleans to Mobile, it has never been easier to explore the coast at your own speed. Slow down and enjoy the ride.
From Atlanta, take the Amtrak Crescent Service (which originates in NYC) for a 13-hour trip to New Orleans. Since it’s a long ride, I would choose a roomette or bedroom to stretch out. Then change trains for the Mardi Gras line. For this trip, we flew to New Orleans from Atlanta, ubered to Union Station to catch the train. The first stop from New Orleans is Bay St. Louis, which is a small city that has lots to do to fill those 24 hours. Let’s go.
📸 Leonard Garrison
The Amtrak Mardi Gras Service offers coach and business class cars. On this leg, we opted for business class which provides little more room plus access to the cafe car first. Our next trip was in coach - just to see how each compares to the other, and honestly, there isn’t much difference in the great service. Choose what works best for you and your friends.
After about an hour, we arrive in Bay St. Louis and are picked up by Downtown Dasher, a golf cart escort that will drop you off at the front door of your accommodations. Make reservations ahead of your arrival, and keep in mind they are seasonal with fewer runs during the winter season.
We check into Pearl Hotel, a beautiful boutique property across the street from the marina. A king room with a gulf view is ideal for viewing the morning sunset. Exhausted from our day of travel, we walk to the lobby and into Thorny Oyster for a tasty meal. They serve incredible fresh seafood, but we’re a burger bunch. It’s the Thorny Burger for us (well done with all the dressings) and finish with Campfire dessert. S’mores in disguise. We end the day satisfied.
Pearl Hotel, Room 213.
See and do in downtown
Bay St. Louis is a walkable town, with everything within a few block radius. Uber is readily available and provides rides for venues in the distance.
The first full day leads us to brunch at Mockingbird Cafe, a community eatery that was born in the wake of Hurricane Katrina. Calling on the comfort of the mockingbird, the cafe greets people with good company and good food. After brunch, it’s a day of exploration with shopping as the main focus. The electric green Fleurty Girl shop shows up for the sassy girls with trinkets, stickers and the purple/green/blue Mardi Gras paraphernalia. Such fun. Nearby, I scored my Mardi Gras fascinator (purple please) at Social Chair. A very simple headdress, it compliments my white hair and one I knew I would actually wear. If you’re more of a diva, be as flamboyant as you want with colorful feathers. They have everything, even gold and silver mile-high tiaras, to draw the beads. The Shops at Century Hall is an artisan community with locally made gifts. In Bay-Tique, you’ll find women’s wear, and at Good Earth Records, all things vinyl. You might luck up and find the box of freebies along the street.
Get a refresh mid-afternoon at Daiquiri Shack for the iconic Louisiana frozen daiquiri.
Mockingbird Cafe
Stroll through Ruth’s Roots, a community garden overflowing with raised gardens, little libraries as well as access to free food and clothing. Follow the yellow brick road and enjoy time underneath the tree in the back. And read the uplifting signage that ushers your walk inside and be that “magnet of miracles.”
Be part of history at 100 Men Hall
For over 100 years, 100 Men Hall has been the epi-center for African American social life and entertainment in Bay St. Louis. Once a stop on the ‘chitlin circuit,’ performers took the stage here. Today, it’s a cultural center drawing talent from around the South and beyond. Notables include Ray Charles, Etta James, BB King and others. Part of the Mississippi Blues Trail, make a point to check the schedule and attend an event.
The Homegrown Literary Festival featured blues musician Corky Siegel and author Ralph Eubanks (“When It’s Darkness on the Delta”) during our time in Bay St. Louis. What a treat.
Taste the coast
Two tastes of Bay St. Louis that haunt my memory: hot honey eggs and meatballs. Not together, but each makes for a mouthwatering solo act. My two favorite dining locations: Hen House Cocktail and Wine Bar for a afternoon slow down and Anthony’s Ristorante to cap off your experience in Bay St. Louis.
There’s nothing to see here. Good charcuterie board, but . . . hot honey bacon deviled eggs. One order is not enough. Hen House Cocktail & Wine Bar.
Once you sit down in Anthony's Ristorante, it becomes obvious that it is a celebration space. Birthday to my right. Anniversary to my left. With well-wishes spoken in Italian. You had me at Italian but made me a fan at meatballs. As an Italian citizen, I know my sauce and cuisine. I confirm it’s authentic, a dish Nona would make. We started with meatballs, and I loved them so much, my entree continues the delight, Radiatore with Meatballs. You can never get too much of a good thing.
